An engraving of the interior of a London coffeehouse in the 17th century, with men seated at tables talking and reading

Before it was a café, it was a newsroom

The coffeehouse didn't start as a place to relax

For centuries before coffee shops meant laptops and wifi passwords, they were where the news broke, deals were struck, and empires occasionally got nervous about what was being discussed over a cup.

1555the first recorded Ottoman coffeehouse opens in Istanbul
the entry price of a 17th-century London coffeehouse
2011Vienna's coffeehouse culture is added to UNESCO's heritage list

"Penny universities"

The nickname 17th-century Londoners gave coffeehouses — a penny bought coffee, newspapers, and a seat at the conversation.

Lloyd's of London

The insurance giant traces its roots directly to a single coffeehouse where ship owners and merchants once traded news and risk.

1686

Café Procope opens in Paris — often cited as the oldest continuously operating café in the world.

Istanbul & Cairo, from the mid-1500s

Where the coffeehouse itself was invented

The coffeehouse as an institution — not just a place selling coffee, but a dedicated room for conversation, music, and games — took shape in the Ottoman Empire. The first recorded coffeehouse in Istanbul opened in 1555, and the idea spread quickly through Cairo, Damascus, and beyond.

These kahvehanes brought together people from across society to talk, listen to storytellers, and exchange news, which made them politically sensitive almost immediately. Ottoman authorities shut coffeehouses down more than once over the following century, worried about the gossip, criticism, and organising that happened inside them — only to see them reopen and multiply regardless.

A historical illustration of an Ottoman coffeehouse in Istanbul, with patrons seated around low tables
A depiction of a late-18th-century Ottoman coffeehouse in Istanbul, 1819.
An engraving of a busy 17th-century London coffeehouse interior
A London coffeehouse, 17th century — newspapers were often as much the draw as the coffee.

London, from the 1650s

The "penny universities" of England

England's first coffeehouse is generally dated to 1652, and within a few decades London had hundreds of them. For a single penny, a customer got a cup of coffee, a seat, the day's newspapers, and admission to whatever debate happened to be underway — which is how they earned the nickname "penny universities."

Specific coffeehouses became so associated with particular trades that they turned into institutions in their own right. Edward Lloyd's coffeehouse on Tower Street, frequented by ship captains and merchants, evolved directly into the insurance market known today as Lloyd's of London. Jonathan's Coffee-House, meanwhile, is where stockbrokers regularly met to trade — laying early groundwork for what became the London Stock Exchange.

Vienna, from the late 1600s

A UNESCO-recognised way of sitting still

Vienna's first licensed coffeehouse opened in 1685, and the city built an entire culture around unhurried sitting: marble-topped tables, bentwood chairs, a glass of water served alongside the coffee, and newspapers mounted on long wooden holders for anyone to read.

The Austrian writer Stefan Zweig once described the Viennese coffeehouse as a kind of democratic club — open to anyone for the cost of one cheap cup, where a guest could sit for hours, write, play cards, or simply read every newspaper in the room without being rushed out. Since 2011, that entire way of using a café has been listed by UNESCO as part of Austria's intangible cultural heritage.

The ornate, high-ceilinged interior of Café Central, a historic Viennese coffeehouse
Café Central in Vienna — one of the city's oldest and most famous traditional coffeehouses.
Vincent van Gogh's painting Cafe Terrace at Night, showing a lit outdoor cafe terrace under a starry sky
Vincent van Gogh, Café Terrace at Night, 1888 — painted at an actual café in Arles, France.

Paris, from 1686 onward

Where the café became a stage

Café Procope opened in Paris in 1686 and is often cited as the oldest continuously operating café in the world. Over the following century it became a meeting point for Enlightenment writers and thinkers, cementing the café's role in French intellectual and artistic life.

Paris took the coffeehouse in a more theatrical direction than London or Vienna: pavement terraces facing the street, meant as much for watching the city go by as for the coffee itself. That image became so central to French culture that painters like Van Gogh turned café terraces into subjects in their own right.

Everywhere, today

The "third place," reinvented again

Sociologists use the term "third place" for spaces that are neither home nor work, but somewhere people gather anyway — and the modern coffee shop fits that description almost exactly, just as the penny universities and kahvehanes once did.

What's changed is the content of the conversation. Specialty, "third-wave" coffee shops now put the same emphasis 19th-century Vienna put on unhurried sitting onto the origin of the beans themselves — single farms, specific altitudes, light roasts chosen to show off a region's character rather than mask it. The newspaper table has largely been replaced by a laptop and a wifi password, but the basic idea — pay a small amount for a seat and a reason to stay — hasn't really changed in over four hundred years.

A barista preparing espresso at a modern specialty coffee shop
A barista at work in a modern specialty coffee shop.